Best time to visit Turkmenistan

Ashgabat’s out-there monuments, the flaming gas crater at Darvaza, the windswept ruins of ancient cities – there is so much that’s extraordinary about Turkmenistan that you’ll want to photograph. So, don’t forget your camera, but do use it wisely. It’s forbidden to photograph public buildings, and photography in the Teke, Russian and Tolkuchka bazaars in Ashgabat is also sometimes frowned on. Arid conditions, long journey times on often rough roads and lack of child-friendly activities mean Turkmenistan is not the most obvious destination for a family break, so don’t bring young kids. Teens with a sense of adventure and a penchant for archeology, on the other hand, might be in heaven! You would be hard-pressed to visit Turkmenistan and ignore its rich history and archeological heritage, but it’s worth remembering that any trip here will focus on visiting ancient sites, learning about the Parthian Empire which ruled from Nisa, and the cross-pollination of ideas promoted by the Silk Road. Don’t come if you’re after a relaxing beach break or activity holiday – that’s not the Turkmenistan offer. The food in this part of the world gets a bad press, but in Turkmenistan it’s actually not bad, just don’t expect haute cuisine. Soup and meat – the Turkmens are big meat eaters – are often served, but veggies do fine, tucking into all kinds of fresh, tasty salads.

"If you think about Ashgabat, you would think it’s almost a Dubai or Las Vegas type place. It’s exceptional, especially the buildings – one in the shape of a lighter, one a book, another in the shape of a star. It’s almost Dr Zeus like. What really gives it a sense of difference from the West, though, is that there are so many restrictions in Turkmenistan. This is the second most controlled nation in the world after North Korea. When passing into the country you will sometimes have four officers looking at you, from front and back. I wouldn’t call it intimidating, unless you have something you shouldn’t have in your suitcase! Then you’re in trouble, as they will absolutely comb through everything. But there is a friendly side to the security guards, it’s just extremely controlled.”

“Visitors should understand that yes, there is internet, but there is no communication outside of Turkmenistan. There is a web, but Hotmail, Facebook, Skype, everything is blocked. All the most commonly known apps can’t be used. If you’re coming here, be prepared that you will not be able to communicate with the outside world. Unless you have to make a phone call out, and that’s going to be extremely expensive. Forget about online services.”

“The Turkmen people in my experience are very friendly, but they will be reserved, because they are being observed. So, they don’t ever want to talk badly, but you do have a sense that sometimes they are holding back what they would really like to say. It’s a bit like China, when you have a government guide, so you don’t really get their free opinion. They would be in a lot of trouble if they spoke openly about politics, so don’t press your guide or local people on this. There is a strong sense of nationalism. Hotels have stars everywhere and there is a great deal of propaganda around the president. You’ll be told, “’Turkmenbashi did this, he did that…’”

“There is a contrast between the vast majority of the country, which is still very undiscovered, and the bigger cities, which are actually very developed. They have areas with a more cosmopolitan feel, nice bars with incredible views, that kind of thing. The people have their fashion sense, too. Women like to wear a lot of green, which is the national colour. Turkmenistan certainly has a real identity!”