Contemporary Lithuanian culture

Holidays often put historic sights front and centre, but contemporary Lithuanian culture is booming. Find out how to get involved in the latest happenings.

What does a country smell like? In the 2010s, Lithuania launched a national scent – a room spray designed to give the country a modern identity abroad, sold in its tourist gift shops. Among its base notes: tree moss and tree smoke.

If this sounds faintly ridiculous, it is supposed to be. But it’s also a spritz of optimism – of which there’s lots in the air.

For the last few years, the Kaunas Botanical Garden has hosted annual ‘Fragrance Nights’ where visitors can experience the gardens at night, when their scent is strongest. This has grown into a five-day botanical festival.

Botanical Nights – the largest festival of its kind in the Baltics – comes complete with concerts, performances and light shows. (Lithuania leads the way in laser tech; Vilnius likes to show off its own tech skills in its annual winter light festival.) The fragrance night now ends at 1am: a full on plant party.

Lithuania’s cultural history is long and fascinating, but the present moment is equally interesting. In the last 20 years, many parts of Lithuanian city life have become unrecognisable. Economically, the country is on the upturn, just as lots of Western Europe is in decline.

Lithuania joined the EU in 2004 and adopted the Euro in 2015. Yet in the years after Soviet rule, one out of five Lithuanians emigrated, primarily due to insufficient income for residents, and also to study. The 2008 financial crash created a wave of economic migrants.

Post-Covid, many Lithuanian people returned home and found the country in a far more optimistic state. There’s a growing appetite for art, restaurants, nightlife and bars. In the 2020s, Lithuania made it into the Michelin guide for the first time and was elected as a European Green Capital for its sustainability efforts, and for protecting its green spaces and clean air.
I was surprised by all this amazing street art.
The tech sector is growing, too. The headquarters of Lithuanian startup Vinted are in Vilnius and Nord Security became its second tech success story a couple of years later. The country is enticing digital nomads to stay, partly with the growing universality of English as a second language, the relative good value for Northern Europe (though prices are rising far out of line with average salaries), and the speediness of its internet (fifth in Europe). Also, perhaps, with the news – received with surprise by Lithuanians – that Lithuanians under 30 are thought to be the happiest in the world. Whilst there are now growing art and culture scenes, they come with gentrification and rising prices for ordinary people.

As a visitor, you might be surprised by Lithuania. Nicola Keen, Responsible Travel’s digital marketing manager, holidayed there last year.

“Before going, I thought it would be a cultural and historical place, but I was expecting this to mean castles and museums,” she says. “I was then surprised as we went down the streets by all this amazing street art.”

A very long, very pink elephant and a massive mural called The Wise Old Man are the exuberant highlights of a Kaunas street art tour, whilst Vilnius has an open-air street art gallery. Vilnius: a cultural capital Vilnius has a reputation for great nightlife. It also has its own hipster district – Naujamiestis, the city’s ‘New Town’, with its interesting, mural-marked architecture housing bars, restaurants and theatres. Then there’s Lukiskes Prison, which once held thousands of Jewish people during the Nazi occupation, but which now is a sensitively curated museum, plus an event space and gallery, and a studio space for 250 creators and artists.

In 2018, Vilnius opened the MO Museum – a private collection of modern art that joins the city’s many galleries, including its National Museum of Art. The design-icon building, clad in white plaster, may look cool and untouchable, but it won an award two years after opening for inclusivity and friendliness, and now receives hundreds of thousands of visitors a year.

Vilnius: a cultural capital

Vilnius has a reputation for great nightlife. It also has its own hipster district – Naujamiestis, the city’s ‘New Town’, with its interesting, mural-marked architecture housing bars, restaurants and theatres. Then there’s Lukiskes Prison, which once held thousands of Jewish people during the Nazi occupation, but which now is a sensitively curated museum, plus an event space and gallery, and a studio space for 250 creators and artists.

In 2018, Vilnius opened the MO Museum – a private collection of modern art that joins the city’s many galleries, including its National Museum of Art. The design-icon building, clad in white plaster, may look cool and untouchable, but it won an award two years after opening for inclusivity and friendliness, and now receives hundreds of thousands of visitors a year.
There’s something exciting happening around every corner.

Marvellous Kaunas & further afield

Lithuania’s second city, Kaunas, has been named a European Capital of Culture. Construction is underway on its Science Island, the first science centre in the country, expected to attract 300,000 visitors a year to see the latest innovations – many of them for children. Now, it feels in the city – as one Lithuanian friend put it to me – “like there’s something exciting happening around every corner”.

Meanwhile, the Stasys Museum has opened in Panevezys, north-central Lithuania. The city wants this modern cultural centre, dedicated to Lithuanian artist Stasys Eidrigevicius, to be one of the premium art destinations in the Baltics.

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How to see modern culture in Lithuania

Most visitors tend to come to Lithuania to focus on history, and then are surprised by the cities’ contemporary art and music scenes. Once you’re there, it’s easy to get swept into its cultural life: a film screening on one night, an art show the next. Supporting Lithuania’s contemporary arts scene helps the next generation of makers and artists and ensures that the ‘happiest place to live for under 30s’ epithet survives.

How to see… street art & modern art in Lithuania

Take yourself on a walking tour of Vilnius’ street sculpture and street art or around Kaunas’s many famous murals. Duck into galleries and museums on the way; both cities have plenty. Kaunas Artists’ House hosts over 200 events a year; Vilnius’ Contemporary Art Centre hosts the Baltic Triennial every three years.

How to see… festivals & events in Lithuania

A Capital of Culture, Kaunas has a full events calendar, including the ConTempo performing arts festival. And recent addition Audra, a ‘contemporary city festival’, is set in the heart of the city and is centred on electronic and dance music. And Lithuania loves a laser show.

How to see… live music in Lithuania

Not all international artists make it to Lithuania on their world tours, but you might want to catch Kaunas’ jazz festival, which has been running since 1991. Vilnius has a lot of late-night venues and event spaces in unusual places – think Lukiskes, the former prison, or Loftas for fashion shows and gigs in a former factory.
Written by Eloise Barker
Photo credits: [Page banner: Kipras Streimikis] [Intro: SUJIRENas] [Street art: Simas Bernotas] [Marvellous Kaunas & further afield: Kipras Streimikis] [National Gallery of Art: Kipras Streimikis]