Cycling holidays in Hungary

You’ll usually spend 2-3 days cycling in Hungary as part of a larger Central and Eastern European holiday. Vienna to Budapest via the Danube is a popular route, or you might hop across to Slovakian border towns, too. Hungary – specifically, Budapest – will often be the last hurrah. Don’t worry about the multiple border crossings; cycling in the largely border check-free Schengen Area is as easy as pedalling over county lines.

William Counsell from UTracks, cycling specialists at our partner World Expeditions Travel, says: “You’ll be tracing history. One of our routes visits Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia. This sleepy city is actually the former capital of the Hungarian Kingdom, way back in the 18th century. It’s interesting to witness the differences between Bratislava and Budapest... I’ll never get tired of how simple it is to cross from one country to another in Europe – in medieval Komarom you simply cross an iron bridge and you’ve left Slovakia and entered Hungary.”

Tailor made cycling trips are self guided. You’ll get expertly crafted maps packed with tips and local info (including emergency numbers, in case you get turned around) and take off at your own pace. All you have to do is get to the next B&B by the end of the day. Families lean towards tailor made, as the itinerary can be tweaked for your brood’s needs, and you can travel year-round.

Small group cycling holidays are great for solo travellers or people who’d like to travel with a guide and other cyclists. You’ll be among kindred spirits – cyclists who love their bike and have endless curiosity about the villages and vineyards around you. A guide will be on hand to explain any curiosities en route and troubleshoot any bike blips. Most run from May to October.

Whichever you choose, accommodation is included – usually comfy family-owned hotels and inns that lay on cyclist-friendly, energy-boosting breakfasts with fresh bread, cheeses, meats and kakaos csiga (like cinnamon rolls, but chocolate – yum). Luggage is always transferred ahead of you, so you don’t have to lug around your growing collection of Hungarian wines.

You’ll cycle up to 55km a day on pancake-flat terrain, and might swap some parts of the route for a train – for instance, travelling into Budapest. That’s no bad thing, giving you the chance to see another side of Hungary. And when you travel with a cycling holiday specialist, your bike will come from expert hire companies that’ll adapt your bike’s number of gears (seven or 21?), add panniers, throw in children’s trailers and offer electric bikes for a supplement.

So when to go? Most small group cycling holidays to Hungary run from May to October, and May is often best in terms of weather and crowds. Lots of families make a beeline for the Danube Cycle Path in July and August, upping the summer holiday vibe. It can also offer camaraderie if you’re on a self guided trip, as you usually end up sharing picnic spots along the river. Although there’s plenty of room on the path for all, the busy summer will inevitably slow down cyclists wanting to Froome along for a bit. It’s also worth noting that Hungary sizzles in 25°C-plus heat in July and August.

There’s criticism that Hungary hasn’t spent as much time and money investing in its cycle paths as it should. They’re mostly good quality paths – just not quite up to the squeaky-clean standards of neighbouring Slovakia and Austria. You’ll cycle some unpaved rural roads on the detours and might need to read a map if you’re self guiding. Plus, sections along the dam walls don’t always have views of the Danube. With luck, the more people that ride the path, the more likely it is that the Hungarian government will see the need to preserve and protect it – for Hungarians as well as tourists.

Will Counsell, from our cycling adventure specialists World Expeditions, says the challenge isn’t a bad thing: “Cycling in Hungary is not as straightforward as its neighbours in Austria with their better developed infrastructure. However, this does not mean any less exciting! There are more unpaved country roads to pedal along and there are some basic map reading skills needed, which is why we class the route as moderate grade. I for one am all about this as I like a little challenge that pushes your comfort zones and encourages you to interact with locals and discover off the beaten track destinations.”