First time travellers to Kenya

When it comes to safaris, Kenya delivers some iconic images: hundreds of wildebeest spilling over the croc-filled Mara River, herds of elephants in the shadow of Mount Kilimanjaro, lionesses stalking dusty savannah. If watching wildlife is the reason you’re heading to Kenya (and let’s face it, it probably is) then you won’t be disappointed, whether you’re looking to go on a luxury honeymoon, rough it on a camping safari or find family-friendly animal encounters.

But there is more to holidays in Kenya than getting out into the bush. There are formidable challenges for hikers in the form of Mount Kenya and the Aberdare Range, as well as sublime stretches of coastline around Mombasa and beyond. Offshore, the enticing island of Lamu is a heady mix of incredible beaches and Swahili architecture. For a real adventure, follow bumpy tracks through the parched desert landscapes of the north, where you’ll find old frontier towns, vibrant tribal culture and the shimmering ‘Jade Sea’ of Lake Turkana.

Kenya is home to abundant plains game, including impalas, zebras, gazelles and wildebeest, and is the scene of one of nature’s greatest spectacles, the Wildebeest Migration, when thousands of wildebeest and zebras cross the treacherous, croc-filled Mara River in search of fresh grazing. The Big Five looms large here, with both black and white rhino present in several of the parks, including Lake Nakuru and Ol Pejeta Conservancy. Although it covers just under 400km², Amboseli National Park has a population of some 1,500 African elephants of all ages, from newborn calves to matriarchs in their 60s. The compact Masai Mara is one of the best places to see lions and leopards in Africa, which is why the BBC filmed its Big Cat Diary here for so many years. Kenya also has astonishing birdlife – over 1,000 species – with everything from rare bearded vultures in Hell’s Gate National Park to mega flocks of pink flamingos on Lake Nakuru. In northern Kenya you’ll find unusual species not seen in the popular parks of the south. The Kalama Conservancy just outside Samburu National Park, for instance, has striped hyenas, civets and rare African wild dogs, while the endangered Rothschild’s giraffe is only found in Lake Nakuru National Park.

Most travellers fly into Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, though if you’re sticking to the beach you might land at Moi International Airport in Mombasa. To avoid shuddering along Kenyan roads for an entire day, many tailor made tours include internal flights to get from Nairobi or Mombasa to airstrips at various national parks and reserves. Small group tours often travel by overland truck, in which case you’ll spend a lot of time on the road – but the views are worth the journey. Another option is a Kenya cycling holiday during which you’ll pedal your way through villages, mountains and national parks.

Amboseli delivers the quintessential safari photo op: the snow-capped peak of Kilimanjaro looming over huge herds of elephants crossing the plains below. You’ll also see zebras and wildebeest here, and there’s a good chance of spotting lions, cheetahs, white rhinos and hyenas, along with hippopotamus and birdlife in the soggy swamplands, fed by the mountain’s meltwater. Walking safaris and night-time game drives are allowed in the conservancies bordering the park.

This national reserve is synonymous with both wildlife and the Maasai tribes. A stage for the Great Migration, the Mara sees some two million wildebeest and zebras spilling into it from June to October – if they survive the precarious Mara River crossing. The surrounding Maasai conservancies give the chance to spend time with the Maasai people, with bushwalks, village visits and warrior training lessons.

The beginning of January right the way through to the end of February is the warmest period to visit Kenya, with higher concentrations of animals congregating in popular tourist destinations, such as the Masai Mara, Lake Nakuru and Amboseli. This is a great time of year for divers to go to Kenya, as visibility in the Indian Ocean is much clearer thanks to the lack of surface runoff. During the long rains – from March to May – some accommodation may shut down, and travel can be tough, but things get drier from June, with the wildebeest migration kicking in from July and August. With the school holidays out of the way in September, you’ll find fewer visiting families. October through to November is a great time to go to Kenya if you’re not tied to the kids. There are short rains, but these cause less disruption and refresh the vegetation, plus it’s a great time for birdwatching, with migrating species arriving in huge numbers.

Internal flights connect Nairobi to airstrips around the country, so a week will give you enough time to tackle one or two national parks, for example Lake Nakuru National Park alongside the Masai Mara or Masai Mara and Samburu National Park. For a more adventurous choice, try a walking safari or a small group camping safari, or for something more sedate, you could choose to combine a safari with time at the beach. Travelling as a family? You can definitely take the kids if you choose an itinerary that’s designed for it. Then there’s always the option of ignoring safaris altogether and focusing on tackling the slopes of Mount Kenya.

Two weeks is a good amount of time to start to get to know Kenya, although there’s still a chance you’ll wish you’d stayed longer. Most tours offer an overview of the main highlights: beaches, national parks, wildlife sanctuaries and some culture. Lots of tours, including family holidays, are tailor made, while many combine the highlights of Kenya with a neighbouring country such as Tanzania or Uganda.

Two weeks gives you enough time for a real adventure: you could explore Kenya’s highlights on a bike. You could also make your way through harsh desert and along rough roads to Lake Turkana, set in one of East Africa’s most isolated regions.

Most longer holidays combine the highlights of Kenya with those of another country such as Tanzania’s Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater, or gorilla watching in Uganda and Rwanda.