Lithuanian history, heritage & culture

Histories proliferate as soon as you scratch the surface of this beautiful Baltic country.

There’s a legend about the Hill of Crosses in Lithuania. Any time someone tries to remove a cross, myriad more appear in its place. They proliferate, startling and bristling, all over the hill.

Histories proliferate across Lithuania’s landscapes. In the 14^th century, this was the largest country in Europe. Since then, it has contracted and concentrated.

“I was surprised how much there was in such a small area in Vilnius,” says Nicola Keen, Responsible Travel’s digital marketing manager. “And by the fact that you could have two or three churches of different denominations literally right opposite each other. It really is an old cliché, but it was a melting pot of cultures.”

The cities are historic and beautiful. Relaxed laws about hot air ballooning mean you can admire Vilnius’ magnificent baroque architecture from the air. For a long time, you couldn’t build over two storeys in the centre of Kaunas, making the city a haven for historic architecture; funding from the EU repaired buildings of historic importance.

Grand architecture isn’t limited to the cities. Lithuanian nobility built manor upon beautiful manor across the country. These ornate buildings are a popular day trip for Lithuanians and international visitors – many are now art galleries or give their lavish grounds over in summer to hosting festivals and events.

Some histories loom larger than others: the Soviet era left the country with stacks of apartment blocks that are starting to show their age. Then there’s Grutas Park, a controversial graveyard of Soviet-era statues of Lenin and – unusually – Stalin (most Stalin statues have been destroyed) in a Soviet-theme park which is built to resemble a gulag.

But for every stern monument, there is a more delicate one.

“There was a statue commemorating Chiune Sugihara, who was a diplomat at the Japanese embassy during World War II,” says Nicola, on visiting Kaunas. “He issued visas for thousands of Jewish people and got them out of the city – so there was a memorial to him made of metal origami cranes and each one was stamped with the embassy stamp. It’s a beautiful, poignant statue… it’s just lovely.”

Then there’s Uzupis, a district in the middle of Vilnius with a beer fountain. On 1 April 1997, it declared itself an independent republic. “As you go over a bridge into this area, you can go into a shop and get your passport stamped,” says Nicola. The commune’s constitution contains 41 whimsical clauses about everything from cats to happiness.

Threading alongside the built landscape is Lithuania’s less tangible culture. The country also holds fast to folk traditions, which have continued unbroken by political shifts and allegiances.

“We still have folk traditions,” says Saulius Ruzinskas, owner of Baltic Bike Travel, our Klaipeda-based partner. “Almost every year we have the song festival held in Vilnius and we have different folklore festivals in different cities every summer… Every school tries to have its own choir which then goes to the folk song festivals which are held nationwide.”

“I don’t remember anywhere else that I’ve been that has folk culture as such a big part of mainstream culture,” says Nicola.

One tradition that won’t die out any time soon is sauna culture. In Lithuania, pirtis is very common, and you don’t have to wait until bitter winter to try one (though snow bathing and having a dip in a frozen lake between sauna sessions is common practice in the colder months). Saunas are found across the countryside. Traditionally, they were used by villagers who lacked running water in their homes. You can join in today with a Russian-style sauna: whisking your body with birch branches, and exfoliating, then softening your skin with a combination of salt and Lithuanian honey.

For cities… Feed into the friendly rivalry between Vilnius and second city Kaunas by visiting both. You might also head to Klaipeda on the way to exploring Curonian Spit National Park.

For country castles and manors… After Trakai castle – which, being on a scenic lake island, wins hands-down for best setting – you might want to go to Uzutrakis Manor, a 19th-century estate on the lakeshore with grand grounds. There’s also Sesuoleliai Estate and Verkiai Manor, near Vilnius. You have the opportunity to see ee all manner of manors on our Baltics cycling holidays.

For Soviet history… There’s Vilnius’ Museum of Occupations and Freedom (‘the KGB museum’) for starters, which documents 50 years of Soviet occupation. Alternatively, tour the museum found in the Vilnius TV Tower. Then there’s Grutas Park, full of unloved Soviet statues, and, further afield, the Cold War Museum, in a secret former nuclear base hidden in Zemaitija National Park.

For folk traditions… Align your visit with summer folk festivals, enjoy the wood carvings on the Hill of Witches in Curonian Spit National Park, or visit the world’s only Devil Museum in Vilnius. Our Baltic Experience Tour visits these places, immersing you in the region’s cultural heritage.

For seasonal delights… At Christmas, Vilnius is known for its highly original, very ornate public square Christmas trees festooned with lights that set trends in other cities. See them on our Baltics winter tour.