Things to see & do in Lhasa

There are some places that, even though on the surface they appear to be in a state of constant change, somehow manage to retain an air of timelessness. Such is the case with the Tibetan capital. The ancient temples and monasteries are outnumbered by modern structures such as apartment and office blocks whose glass frontages gleam in the sunshine, and vast shopping centres. But enter these religious institutions, watch as the devout make their daily circuit of the courtyard at the Jokhang Temple, or the shaven-headed, red-robed monks debate theology in the Sera Monastery, and you can sense the centuries dropping away.

Lhasa is where most Tibet holidays begin and, at 3,670m, an ideal place to acclimatise before moving on. Arriving into the airport you may be welcomed with a khata, a traditional prayer scarf, before the 100km drive into the city, the route offering plenty of dramatic Himalayan views. Despite its altitude, Lhasa can suffer from air pollution, much of it related to dust thrown up by construction activity – one of the most common justifications given for the Chinese occupation of Tibet since 1950 is the development of ‘infrastructure’.

The monasteries here have been used for worshipping and teaching for centuries. The Chinese flag may fly at Potala Palace, but it is still the unassailable seat of Tibetan religion and politics. You won’t find any photographs of the Dalai Lama in Lhasa, and attempting to discuss politics with your guide or any locals you meet in the Tibetan capital is discouraged unless they bring it up first, but he is far from forgotten. And the ritual of the Barkhor circuit around Jokhang Temple feels just as constant as Everest. If you want to explore Tibet’s history, culture and resilient spirituality, there’s nowhere better to start than Lhasa.