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Responsible tourism in Portugal

Our guide to responsible tourism in Portugal explores some of the current issues, and how you can travel better here. We look at some of the likely effects of the climate crisis on holidays in Portugal, and at the fantastic boom in cultural travel that is helping small producers while potentially stemming population declines in rural areas.

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Responsible tourism in Portugal

My former mother-in-law used to own a rambling old finca (farmhouse) in Portugal’s Algarve region. The first time I visited, I was struck by the view from the terrace at the back. In a two-kilometre semi-circle there was no vegetation whatsoever, just rocky, bare ground. When I asked why, I was told that a few years previously there had been horrendous blazes that had almost reached the village before they could be put out. It had been decided to prevent any vegetation growing nearby in future, so that any fires would have nothing to burn. That was my first introduction to the realities of Portugal’s devastating annual fire season, and how this country is one of the most exposed in Europe to the climate crisis.

From that point on I was acutely aware of the problems Portugal faces in this respect and how I could do my part. Sunbathers at major tourist beaches in the Algarve can borrow little plastic ashtrays so they don’t bury their cigarette butts in the sand. I acquired one so that we could safely dispose of ours anywhere we went. Any time we were walking in the countryside and saw a broken piece of glass, or a bit of transparent plastic, I would religiously pick it up and put it in a bin. Sun rays magnified through discarded glass can often cause fires in rural areas. And, to help conserve precious water supplies, at the finca I took care to water the plants only in the evenings, and to shower for no more than a few minutes at a time.

I know these are the kind of little things many of us do as a matter of course, but in some parts of the world, such as Portugal, they’re now becoming essential. Huge wildfires are a depressingly regular occurrence every summer, destroying vast swathes of tree cover, and the country is sweltering under record-breaking temperatures.

Despite all this, there is also plenty for the responsible traveller to relish in Portugal. Bullfighting is on its way out. New lines of cultural tourism are constantly emerging. And while climate change is clearly going to impact holidays here in future, there’s a great deal going on to mitigate its effects. Our guide to responsible tourism in Portugal takes a look at some of the issues.

Wildlife & environment

Dolphin Shows

Portugal has 'sealife centres' with captive dolphins and other ocean-living animals, notably the Algarve's Zoomarine. Their dolphin shows and encounters are little different to those at SeaWorld, which we continue to campaign against. Whatever the publicity says about the amount of space they have in their tanks, dolphins are highly intelligent mammals that range far and wide in the ocean, engaging with other dolphins and marine life. They require this for their emotional and social well-being far more than they need to get up close to a human being in a shallow artificial 'lagoon'.

What you can do:
At Responsible Travel, we do not support keeping any animal in captivity for the purposes of tourism entertainment. For more information on our stance, plus where to see these marine mammals in the wild, see our Dolphin watching guide.

How the climate crisis will affect holidays in Portugal

Portugal is likely to be one of the European countries most affected by the climate crisis. In June 2022, 96 percent of the country was considered to be suffering from severe or extreme drought, while over the last 30 years it has endured more than a third of the forest fires affecting the Mediterranean region as a whole. Drought, heatwaves and devastating wildfires are all likely to increase in future, as rainfall decreases. And as sea levels rise, many of Portugal’s renowned beaches will be at risk from erosion and flooding. The precious biodiversity of the Rio Formosa Nature Reserve in the Algarve will be significantly threatened.

All of which will make summer holidays in Portugal less popular, as more travellers choose to give the heat a swerve in favour of cooler destinations. Conversely, however, visiting Portugal in the spring and autumn (already lovely) will become that much more pleasant with manageably warm temperatures. For those that continue to brave July and August, air-conditioned accommodation, avoiding the midday sun, and avoiding wildfire-prone areas, will become even more pressing needs.

In the Algarve region, which like neighbouring Alentejo faces serious problems with drought, the Portuguese government is recommending local councils introduce tourism taxes to help improve sustainability. Hotels and resorts that use more water, such as those with large swimming pools to fill and grounds to water, could be asked to pay more tax. This could then be invested in reservoirs or reducing leakage. At least part of these extra costs could be borne by travellers, in much the same way that many European cities impose an overnight tax to help maintain infrastructure and protect natural resources.

Climate change & Portuguese wine tourism

Climate change, and the unstable weather patterns that it heralds, present an obvious hazard for wine producers who are reliant on stability for growing and harvesting their grapes. Responsible Travels’ Eloise Barker visited Pinhão in the Douro wine region in late spring 2023, and while there asked about the effects of climate change. “The lady I spoke to literally went pale and shook her head saying how dreadful it was in 2022. It reached 48°C and they lost something like 30 percent of their harvest. She said it was terrible heat for working and she was worried about this year. She said that 2022 was the first year that the government had let them irrigate the vines. We were with some Australians and even they were shocked to hear about the heat!”

Wine tourists in Portugal are going to see a number of innovations designed to mitigate the effects as they visit vineyards, from robots monitoring soil conditions to drones keeping an eye out for pests, and, importantly, greatly increased biodiversity.

Sustainable vine growing techniques can follow ‘land mosaic’ principles, where emphasis is placed on the health of surrounding landscapes, from grasslands to forests and olive groves. These in turn provide habitat for many pollinators and other animals that are beneficial to vineyards. Bats, for instance, feed on moths and other pests, while birds of prey deter rodents.
The Porto Protocol is a sustainability initiative born out of conferences around how the wine industry can come together to combat climate change. Emission-reducing solutions proposed by their members and partners include using lighter bottles so that transporting them has a smaller carbon footprint, and making ‘luxury’ less about the helicopter tours and more about the pleasures of a quiet vineyard surrounded by biodiversity. An embrace of slow wine tourism is a big part of this initiative, and exploring the vineyards of Portugal’s Douro Valley can be done on foot, by bike or even by kayak.

Are ‘eco debt swaps’ ethical?

Portugal signed an agreement with former colony Cape Verde (Cabo Verde), allowing the island nation to swap its 140-million-euro debt for investment in an environment and climate fund. All debt repayments will now go into the fund, which will be used to pay for energy transition. Debt-for-nature financial mechanisms such as this are becoming popular as the debate continues to rage over who should pay for actions taken to combat climate change. On the face of it this looks like a pretty good deal for Cape Verde. Its debt ‘forgiven’ so long as the money instead goes into a fund that benefits the country and its people. Here’s a suggestion though…

Cape Verde was a Portuguese colony for around 500 years. For much of that period, Portugal earned a great deal of money from these islands off the coast of Africa, with one of its principal exports being slaves. Tens of thousands of people were sold in bondage to the ‘New World’, many headed for Brazil. Others were enslaved in Cape Verde itself and worked in the cotton industry.

Like many former African colonies, Cape Verde has struggled economically since it attained independence (an independence gained only after years of struggle, it’s worth noting). Much of the country’s debt results from loans made by Portugal to its former colony, while millions more is owed to financial institutions.

Climate and environment investment funds can be a useful tool to help poorer countries combat and mitigate the effects of climate change. But when it comes to debt swaps, given the history between the two countries, perhaps that debt ought to have been written off a long time ago. And perhaps whenever former colonies are given their share of the bill for climate change, the colonisers ought to think about covering it for them. Especially when they profited for centuries from slavery.

What you can do:
Be conscious of your holiday’s overall climate cost, not just the carbon footprint of getting there. Use as little water as you can, especially during the summer and in southern regions where drought is worst. Do everything you can to minimise the risk of accidentally causing wildfires – be very careful how you discard cigarette butts, for instance. And consider holidaying out of the main summer season which helps to spread the benefits of tourism further through the year, and also means you’ll be warm but not uncomfortably hot.

People & culture

The growth of cultural tourism in Portugal

Portugal is not a wealthy country (though we’d argue that in terms of natural beauty and cultural experiences its coffers are overflowing) and the effects of that are often felt most keenly in rural areas. Much of the countryside economy is based around subsistence agriculture which is hard enough at the best of times. And since the 1990s, Portugal's vast rural interior has suffered significant depopulation as people – especially the young – moved to cities in search of work and a sense of purpose they weren't sensing in what some saw as moribund country life.

Tourism is a useful way to help places regenerate, creating employment and new means of cultural expression. Spreading opportunities and income from responsible tourism encourages people to stick around and stops communities from becoming hollowed out.

Much of the tourism in mainland Portugal continues to focus on a few big-name destinations: Lisbon; Porto; Sintra; the Douro Valley; the Algarve region. But recent years have seen an expansion of travel into new parts of Portugal, and new areas of Portuguese culture. Wine tourism is popular, of course, but also literary tourism, following in the footsteps of Saramago, Eça de Queiroz and Pessoa. There are walking and cycling tours too, not only through the Algarve and Alentejo but along the Atlantic Coast, and in the unblemished surrounds of Peneda-Gerês National Park in Northern Portugal. The Great Lake in Alqueva, in the Alentejo region, is one of the largest artificial lakes in Europe. Not only a popular family holiday destination, it’s also a Dark Sky Reserve where even the most inexperienced astronomers can enjoy sterling views of the stars and the Milky Way.

Other forms of tourism taking off in Portugal include geotourism, such as that around the Arouca Valley near Porto, which is renowned for its biodiverse landscapes. Visitors can brave one of the longest (516m) pedestrian bridges in the world as it crosses the Paiva River, for sublime views of the valley’s landscapes. Wildlife tourism is thriving in the Azores, which may be the best place for whale-watching on the planet, but the Atlantic archipelago is also superb for multi activity trips, with canyoning, kayaking and hiking up volcanos all on the itinerary.

In addition, farm stays, country inns and restaurants are boosting their income hosting and feeding visitors who are increasingly visiting year-round as climate change makes spring and autumn appeal more at the expense of summer. A demand for crafts and local produce helps maintain production as well as pride in the preservation of ancient skills.

What you can do:
Get beyond the tourist hotspots. There is a lot more to Portugal than the glamour of Lisbon, Sintra and Porto, or the beaches and golf courses of the Algarve. One of the best ways you can do this is with responsible cultural tours, with local guides showing you around communities they know well, and taking you to lesser-visited parts of the country where you can escape the crowds.

Try to experience as much of traditional Portugal as you can, for example by exploring the locally made produce, from food to handicrafts such as cork or azulejo tiles. Creating employment in rural areas and maintaining endangered traditions is a key element of responsible tourism in Portugal. (well, not all endangered traditions – see below).

Bull fighting & bull running

Though not as widespread or overtly bloody as it is in Spain, bullfighting still takes place in Portugal. For many years, Portuguese bulls were not allowed to be killed during the contest – though since they were inevitably slaughtered afterwards because of their injuries that seemed a moot point. But in 2021 RTP, Portugal’s state broadcaster, announced that it would no longer show live bullfighting events. It wasn’t a particularly surprising move – audience numbers for this bloodthirsty ‘sport’ were dwindling anyway, as more and more Portuguese turned against it.

In 2019 the main bullfighting arena, the Albufeira bullring, closed permanently, and the minimum age for spectators at bullfighting events in Portugal has now been raised from 12 to 16. The ludicrously dangerous practice of bull-running is also falling out of popularity, thankfully, though it does still go on in some parts of Portugal – particularly the Azores. In a place so renowned for responsible whale-watching it’s incongruous that this cruel business continues.

What you can do:
At Responsible Travel, we don’t support watching the killing or injuring animals for sport, however much it might be a part of ‘tradition’ – and anyone taking part in the bull runs is also putting themselves at risk of injury or death. It could be said that bullfighting is part of Portuguese cultural history, as in Spain – but if you want to get a sense of what's involved, we suggest reading Ernest Hemingway’s classic 1920s account of Iberian bull traditions in The Sun Also Rises instead.

Responsible tourism tips

The tap water in Portugal is safe to drink in most places, but if you’re in any doubt just ask your hosts. We recommend bringing a reusable water bottle with you and to refill whenever the chance arises, to reduce plastic waste. As with anywhere you visit, please be respectful of local resources in Portugal, especially water, as the country is so vulnerable to drought. Naturally you need to stay well-hydrated, but try not to waste water. This is especially relevant in Southern Portugal, where we would recommend you choose the beach over wasteful water parks, and shower only long enough to rinse off the sand and get clean. Recent years have seen Portugal’s devastating wildfire season get longer and more severe. Fires are particularly likely during the long, hot summer months when vegetation is tinder dry. In some regions, starting a forest fire – even if it is an accident – is treated as a criminal offence. So be extremely careful when driving, only discard cigarette butts into ashtrays, and never leave glass bottles lying around, as they can spark a fire. And if you’re planning a barbecue, check it’s allowed first - in summer, barbecues are banned in many parts of Portugal. No holiday is ever totally sustainable, but one of the best ways to keep your trip’s carbon footprint to a minimum is by eating locally produced, seasonal food. And outside of resorts, you may be surprised how easy this can be in Portugal. Many places have a weekly market where self-catering travellers can stock up on fresh fruit and vegetables, and if you’re staying in a coastal area this is a perfect way to pick up fish and seafood fresh off the boat. If you’re not planning on cooking during your holiday, you can still prepare picnics, or enjoy snacks, from local produce. Many rural areas of Portugal are filled with fantastic small-scale producers. Purchasing food and drink for picnics, or handicrafts for souvenirs, help keep local traditions alive and sustain communities which often struggle with unemployment. It’s always nice to try a few phrases from the local lingo, and adding even a sprinkling of Portuguese, such as basic greetings and “thank you!”, will go down very well.