Sahara Desert guide
The Sahara Desert will surprise you. Get to know this misunderstood monster.
Zakouma National Park in Chad
There are more than five hundred elephants in Zakouma National Park, forming one of the largest populations in Central Africa. They’re an impressive sight to behold, but what’s surprising is not just the size of the herd. It’s the fact that there are any elephants left in Zakouma at all. Until 2010 this wilderness area in Chad was effectively under siege from heavily armed poaching groups who, in the space of just a decade, reduced elephant numbers in the park by 90 percent.
But then the Chadian government took the bold move of handing over management of Zakouma, and the wider ecosystem with its migratory corridors, to the non-profit conservation organisation, African Parks. And now, some of the best-trained, best-equipped rangers on the continent patrol here, with the result that poaching within the park boundaries has fallen to near zero and wildlife populations, so long in steep decline, are finally improving. Once on the brink of destruction, today Zakouma is the safari destination of choice for those in the know.
“Whenever people ask me where the most exciting place is to go on safari right now, I always say that Zakouma has to be near the top,” says Tom Clode, founder of our partner Pictus Safaris.
And what is it exactly that makes this park so special?
“I think there are three reasons: the geography, the animals, and the story.”
Let’s start with the geography.
Located in the south-east corner of Chad, with rainforest to the south and the vast Sahara to the north, Zakouma is, as Tom points out, the closest place to Europe where you can see the Big Five: elephants, lions, leopards, rhinos and buffaloes. The park is composed of several interlinked ecosystems so that, even at the height of the parched dry season, the wildlife has places it can retreat to until the climate suits it better.
Antelope such as kob and tiang fall prey to big cats on savanna grasslands, buffalo splash over the floodplains, and rare Kordofan giraffes munch thoughtfully along the treetops of verdant forest. “Because they’re so sensitive to poaching and conflict, giraffes are a kind of bellwether for the overall health of an ecosystem,” continues Tom. “If they’re doing well, as they are in Zakouma, then it says a lot.”
There are abundant smaller animals here too, including servals, aardvarks and pale foxes that are likely to be new even to experienced safari-goers.
But then the Chadian government took the bold move of handing over management of Zakouma, and the wider ecosystem with its migratory corridors, to the non-profit conservation organisation, African Parks. And now, some of the best-trained, best-equipped rangers on the continent patrol here, with the result that poaching within the park boundaries has fallen to near zero and wildlife populations, so long in steep decline, are finally improving. Once on the brink of destruction, today Zakouma is the safari destination of choice for those in the know.
“Whenever people ask me where the most exciting place is to go on safari right now, I always say that Zakouma has to be near the top,” says Tom Clode, founder of our partner Pictus Safaris.
And what is it exactly that makes this park so special?
“I think there are three reasons: the geography, the animals, and the story.”
Let’s start with the geography.
Located in the south-east corner of Chad, with rainforest to the south and the vast Sahara to the north, Zakouma is, as Tom points out, the closest place to Europe where you can see the Big Five: elephants, lions, leopards, rhinos and buffaloes. The park is composed of several interlinked ecosystems so that, even at the height of the parched dry season, the wildlife has places it can retreat to until the climate suits it better.
Antelope such as kob and tiang fall prey to big cats on savanna grasslands, buffalo splash over the floodplains, and rare Kordofan giraffes munch thoughtfully along the treetops of verdant forest. “Because they’re so sensitive to poaching and conflict, giraffes are a kind of bellwether for the overall health of an ecosystem,” continues Tom. “If they’re doing well, as they are in Zakouma, then it says a lot.”
There are abundant smaller animals here too, including servals, aardvarks and pale foxes that are likely to be new even to experienced safari-goers.
Because they’re so sensitive to poaching and conflict, giraffes are a bellwether for the overall health of an ecosystem. If they’re doing well, as they are in Zakouma, then it says a lot.![]()
The other headline attraction in Zakouma is the elephants that for the most part trudge along together in one vast herd. Their story is the story of Zakouma’s resurgence, and telling it explains why responsible holidays here are so important.
Why is Zakouma National Park important?
Zakouma is important for two reasons. Firstly, through a strong emphasis on security, stability and local communities, the park has become a stronghold for many species that are endangered or extinct in other parts of Central and West Africa. And secondly, because it stands as an example of what can be achieved by a zero-tolerance conservation strategy within an area notorious for a violent ivory and wildlife trade.
The decision of the government to pass responsibility for a national park to a foreign NGO was controversial, and African Parks’ approach is not without its critics, with accusations that its strict management of park boundaries displaces local people, and robs them of their traditional lands and ways of life.
Chad’s oldest national park has been a target for poachers for centuries, drawn by an elephant population that in the 1970s numbered around 22,000. But by 2010, almost 90 percent of them had been slaughtered for their ivory, with Janjaweed mercenaries crossing the border from Sudan on horseback, terrorising and plundering villages on the outskirts of the parks, their activities unimpeded as Chad wrestled with civil war and widespread lawlessness. African Parks’ quasi-militarised conservation has dramatically halted the poaching that was ravaging Zakouma’s wildlife.
Peter Fearnhead, co-founder of African Parks, has said he prefers to think of their conservation model as ‘professionalised’ rather than 'militarised’. However, the rangers in Zakouma do resemble soldiers, bearing high-powered rifles, their vehicles mounted with high calibre weapons. Such ‘professionalism’ is a reaction to the danger posed by poachers. In 2012, six Zakouma park rangers were murdered by a gang of ivory poachers as they performed their morning prayers. That atrocity prompted African Parks to create the heavily armed rapid response unit it calls the Mamba team.
And they have a formidable foe. Ivory is not only used for artworks and traditional medicines in countries such as China and Egypt, but it serves as a form of criminal currency, funding terrorist organisations and militias. Poaching is just the ugly face of the illegal wildlife trade, which is fuelled by lax or corrupt governments and security forces. Many of the raiders that persecuted Zakouma crossed the border from Sudan, which is seen as a safe haven for some criminal groups.
Today, Zakouma’s remaining elephants are naturally wary of humans. But in contrast to elsewhere in West Africa, their numbers are increasing, and now they will often choose to remain within the park even during the wet season, because they view it as a place of relative safety.
The decision of the government to pass responsibility for a national park to a foreign NGO was controversial, and African Parks’ approach is not without its critics, with accusations that its strict management of park boundaries displaces local people, and robs them of their traditional lands and ways of life.
Chad’s oldest national park has been a target for poachers for centuries, drawn by an elephant population that in the 1970s numbered around 22,000. But by 2010, almost 90 percent of them had been slaughtered for their ivory, with Janjaweed mercenaries crossing the border from Sudan on horseback, terrorising and plundering villages on the outskirts of the parks, their activities unimpeded as Chad wrestled with civil war and widespread lawlessness. African Parks’ quasi-militarised conservation has dramatically halted the poaching that was ravaging Zakouma’s wildlife.
Peter Fearnhead, co-founder of African Parks, has said he prefers to think of their conservation model as ‘professionalised’ rather than 'militarised’. However, the rangers in Zakouma do resemble soldiers, bearing high-powered rifles, their vehicles mounted with high calibre weapons. Such ‘professionalism’ is a reaction to the danger posed by poachers. In 2012, six Zakouma park rangers were murdered by a gang of ivory poachers as they performed their morning prayers. That atrocity prompted African Parks to create the heavily armed rapid response unit it calls the Mamba team.
And they have a formidable foe. Ivory is not only used for artworks and traditional medicines in countries such as China and Egypt, but it serves as a form of criminal currency, funding terrorist organisations and militias. Poaching is just the ugly face of the illegal wildlife trade, which is fuelled by lax or corrupt governments and security forces. Many of the raiders that persecuted Zakouma crossed the border from Sudan, which is seen as a safe haven for some criminal groups.
Today, Zakouma’s remaining elephants are naturally wary of humans. But in contrast to elsewhere in West Africa, their numbers are increasing, and now they will often choose to remain within the park even during the wet season, because they view it as a place of relative safety.
Making space for wildlife & people
One of the biggest criticisms levelled at African Parks is that by rigidly enforcing park boundaries to block poachers, it also cuts off access for local people, including those who depend on it for their livelihoods. Gathering firewood for subsistence and grazing small herds of animals has become much more difficult in Zakouma. Thousands of nomadic people pass through the area every year too; and African Parks agree that a balance needs to be struck between the needs of humans and the protection of Zakouma’s threatened wildlife.
However, African Parks insists it is creating a space where both people and wildlife benefit. The Greater Zakouma ecosystem is the largest employer in the region, supporting many enterprises springing up, from honey harvesting to shea butter production. The low-volume, high-value tourism that African Parks encourages also puts money into local economy.
Villages around Zakouma have been provided with radios so they can act as an early warning system for rangers when raiders are in the area. That makes people feel more secure too, as armed groups are not simply there to poach animals but have also plundered villages.
African Parks uses all profits from tourism to fund park management and to pay for various programmes, such as those that fund teacher training and improved classroom materials. They also pay for the construction of Secko schools that can be easily built for remoter villages. Chadian children are often invited to visit the park and stay overnight at no cost – the first time many of them have seen wildlife of this size.
Environmental education such as this is fundamental to Zakouma National Park's community outreach, and a key factor in building what it calls a ‘Conservation Constituency’. By involving the local community in the conservation efforts, and by making them more secure due to the presence of rangers, as well as creating opportunities to benefit financially from employment in the park or as a local supplier, the aims of the park become more achievable.
It is hoped that these years of peace in Zakouma could foster stability in a country that has suffered forced labour, slavery and neglect as a French colony, and decades of guerrilla warfare post-independence. While armed rangers in other countries have been guilty of terrible atrocities, African Parks employs directly and maintains that they are fully accountable.
However, African Parks insists it is creating a space where both people and wildlife benefit. The Greater Zakouma ecosystem is the largest employer in the region, supporting many enterprises springing up, from honey harvesting to shea butter production. The low-volume, high-value tourism that African Parks encourages also puts money into local economy.
Villages around Zakouma have been provided with radios so they can act as an early warning system for rangers when raiders are in the area. That makes people feel more secure too, as armed groups are not simply there to poach animals but have also plundered villages.
African Parks uses all profits from tourism to fund park management and to pay for various programmes, such as those that fund teacher training and improved classroom materials. They also pay for the construction of Secko schools that can be easily built for remoter villages. Chadian children are often invited to visit the park and stay overnight at no cost – the first time many of them have seen wildlife of this size.
Environmental education such as this is fundamental to Zakouma National Park's community outreach, and a key factor in building what it calls a ‘Conservation Constituency’. By involving the local community in the conservation efforts, and by making them more secure due to the presence of rangers, as well as creating opportunities to benefit financially from employment in the park or as a local supplier, the aims of the park become more achievable.
It is hoped that these years of peace in Zakouma could foster stability in a country that has suffered forced labour, slavery and neglect as a French colony, and decades of guerrilla warfare post-independence. While armed rangers in other countries have been guilty of terrible atrocities, African Parks employs directly and maintains that they are fully accountable.
What animals are at Zakouma National Park?
Once victim to widespread and uncontrolled poaching, Zakouma today is a haven for many species that are threatened elsewhere by habitat loss, climate change and the illegal wildlife trade.
The Big Five & beyond
Beyond the Kordofan giraffes, there are several animal populations here that are important both regionally and nationally, from elephants to servals and aardvarks. Zakouma can also offer the only rhinos in Central Africa – reintroduced once the park was secure – not to mention what’s thought to be the largest single herd of bush elephants on the continent.
If you’ve been on safari a few times before, the thrill of seeing an elephant may have faded. But to see 550 of them grouped together – even off in the distance – that’s going to be a jaw-dropping moment. Zakouma’s elephants learned to bunch up for protection from poachers but now, after several years of peace, you’ll often see smaller groups and individuals splitting off from the main herd.
If you’ve been on safari a few times before, the thrill of seeing an elephant may have faded. But to see 550 of them grouped together – even off in the distance – that’s going to be a jaw-dropping moment. Zakouma’s elephants learned to bunch up for protection from poachers but now, after several years of peace, you’ll often see smaller groups and individuals splitting off from the main herd.
You have the familiarity of the Big Five here but also this amazing variety.![]()
The park is a paradise for predators that chase down red-fronted gazelles, tiangs and kobs. Encouraged by the smorgasbord on offer, lion, leopard and cheetah numbers get healthier every year, while African wild dogs – though they have yet to settle in the park – have been observed passing through.
Nocturnal creatures
Tom has notched up more than 40 night drives in Zakouma: “You get some truly remarkable nocturnal viewings here. Not once have I failed to see a serval. And besides the big cats you also have this incredible supporting cast of mesopredators – caracals, honey badgers, pale foxes – animals that are only rarely seen elsewhere.”
In Tom’s view, it is rarer small mammals, such as aardvarks, pale foxes, servals and caracals that are the main draw in Zakouma. “All of them are likely to be firsts for anyone not used to safaris in Central Africa. You have the familiarity of the Big Five here but also this amazing variety.”
In Tom’s view, it is rarer small mammals, such as aardvarks, pale foxes, servals and caracals that are the main draw in Zakouma. “All of them are likely to be firsts for anyone not used to safaris in Central Africa. You have the familiarity of the Big Five here but also this amazing variety.”
Birdlife
Binoculars at the ready: almost 400 bird species have been recorded in Zakouma National Park. During the dry season vast flocks of them congregate around the Rigueik Pan, a huge wetland area where you can see red-billed quelea in their tens of thousands, black-crowned cranes and dozens of raptors, including African fish eagles, owls and yellow-billed kites. Large numbers of buffalo, tiang and Lelwel hartebeest don’t go unnoticed by predators either, and because you’ll probably visit several times during your stay, you may well witness a chase.
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What is a Zakouma National Park safari like?
How to get to Zakouma National Park
Zakouma is remote, making it either expensive, or time-consuming, to reach. Most Zakouma safaris get there overland across the Sahel region from the capital, N’Djamena, via a night at a campsite near the city of Mongo. At 16-18 hours over roads that are not always in the best condition, it can certainly be a challenging journey, but it’s also a priceless introduction to Chad as you stop in small villages along the way to buy snacks and drinks.The other option, a private Chad safari, includes a chartered 90-minute flight over the stark interior, pockmarked with inselbergs (small, isolated mountains). Due to the limited availability of seats, most people will either drive or fly both ways.
Accommodation in Zakouma National Park
There are two camps in Zakouma, with the very high-end fly-camp option only available to private groups. Though it has just one jeep, it has priority access to viewing points. Most Zakouma safari holidays instead stay at Tinga, which is the former government-run camp, and has a fleet of four or five vehicles.
“Even though it’s not a huge park, it feels very exclusive because there are so few vehicles around,” says Tom. “And even though we have to work around the luxury camp’s itinerary, we don’t mind at all as it means we get to explore remote areas of the park.”
Tinga rooms have a basic en suite. There’s electricity, a paid-for bar, some fairly unreliable Wi-Fi, and no hot water.
“But given the oppressive heat of Chad’s dry season, that’s never been an issue,” laughs Tom. “The main reason to stay at Tinga is the location. It’s in a dry wilderness area and the animal viewing is superb. I have seen four of the Big Five from camp, so it’s a perfect base for naturalists.”
“Even though it’s not a huge park, it feels very exclusive because there are so few vehicles around,” says Tom. “And even though we have to work around the luxury camp’s itinerary, we don’t mind at all as it means we get to explore remote areas of the park.”
Tinga rooms have a basic en suite. There’s electricity, a paid-for bar, some fairly unreliable Wi-Fi, and no hot water.
“But given the oppressive heat of Chad’s dry season, that’s never been an issue,” laughs Tom. “The main reason to stay at Tinga is the location. It’s in a dry wilderness area and the animal viewing is superb. I have seen four of the Big Five from camp, so it’s a perfect base for naturalists.”
Safari activities in Zakouma National Park
Safaris in Zakouma National Park take things pleasingly back to basics. It’s not like some national parks that have been welcoming tourists for decades and where the guides know under precisely which tree they will find the lions dozing. Safaris here are expeditionary in nature; sightings of species are never guaranteed, and it feels all the more exciting for that.
Daily game drives are the main activity on Zakouma National Park tours. Responsible drivers and guides ensure that jeeps keep a safe distance from the wildlife so as not to disturb it and keep off-road driving to a minimum to avoid damaging sensitive habitats. Night drives are also popular, but again animal welfare is paramount, keeping encounters short so as not to affect animal behaviours, and not scaring young or vulnerable animals by using spotlights to illuminate them.
Walking safaris give a fascinating new perspective on smaller animals that often go unnoticed in the excitement of spotting a lion. The furtive activities of a dung beetle or whiskery rodent may not seem all that interesting until you’re in the company of an excellent guide who can make you feel like you’re involved in a wildlife documentary. A night sleeping out in the bush is another unforgettable experience in Zakouma, with the sounds of the wilderness all around you as you drift off beneath the stars.
Our responsible partners will usually take their groups out to a nearby village to wander the weekly market where you can find everything from sword sheaths to woven baskets alongside fresh fruit and peanuts. Visiting places like this, interacting with people, and spending some money locally, is the best way to ensure long-term protection for wilderness areas such as Zakouma.
Another valuable excursion is to the park headquarters, where you can learn about how Zakouma is managed and about the efforts of the rangers to protect its endangered species. And, if you time it right, you can also watch as the elephants come along for a drink from the hosepipe.
Daily game drives are the main activity on Zakouma National Park tours. Responsible drivers and guides ensure that jeeps keep a safe distance from the wildlife so as not to disturb it and keep off-road driving to a minimum to avoid damaging sensitive habitats. Night drives are also popular, but again animal welfare is paramount, keeping encounters short so as not to affect animal behaviours, and not scaring young or vulnerable animals by using spotlights to illuminate them.
Walking safaris give a fascinating new perspective on smaller animals that often go unnoticed in the excitement of spotting a lion. The furtive activities of a dung beetle or whiskery rodent may not seem all that interesting until you’re in the company of an excellent guide who can make you feel like you’re involved in a wildlife documentary. A night sleeping out in the bush is another unforgettable experience in Zakouma, with the sounds of the wilderness all around you as you drift off beneath the stars.
Our responsible partners will usually take their groups out to a nearby village to wander the weekly market where you can find everything from sword sheaths to woven baskets alongside fresh fruit and peanuts. Visiting places like this, interacting with people, and spending some money locally, is the best way to ensure long-term protection for wilderness areas such as Zakouma.
Another valuable excursion is to the park headquarters, where you can learn about how Zakouma is managed and about the efforts of the rangers to protect its endangered species. And, if you time it right, you can also watch as the elephants come along for a drink from the hosepipe.
Best time to visit Zakouma National Park
You can only visit Zakouma during the dry season between late November and late May to early June. During the wet season the park is inundated with heavy rains and flooding, and closed to visitors. The animals, too, prefer not to get their paws wet, and many migrate out of the park temporarily.
By the end of November, much of Zakouma is open to visitors again and roads that have been degraded by flooding have been resurfaced. From February to May the weather gets progressively warmer – expect temperatures of more than 40°C by April – and you can enjoy spectacular sightings around waterholes and floodplains where many species congregate.
Earlier in the dry season is best for birdwatching in Zakouma, with immense flocks descending on areas such as the Rigueik Pan, while April to May is the optimum time for game viewing, with daytime drives timed to avoid the heat around midday.
By the end of November, much of Zakouma is open to visitors again and roads that have been degraded by flooding have been resurfaced. From February to May the weather gets progressively warmer – expect temperatures of more than 40°C by April – and you can enjoy spectacular sightings around waterholes and floodplains where many species congregate.
Earlier in the dry season is best for birdwatching in Zakouma, with immense flocks descending on areas such as the Rigueik Pan, while April to May is the optimum time for game viewing, with daytime drives timed to avoid the heat around midday.
A quiet little miracle
Back to those elephants. As spectacular as it is to see five hundred or more of them in one great, grey huddle, the fact is there should be a lot more. And as tight as Zakouma’s borders may be, as dedicated as the park rangers are, until we get to grips with the illegal trade in wildlife and animal parts these magnificent creatures will never truly be safe from poaching.
Tom Clode’s Pictus Safaris encourage tipping for local guides and staff, but refuse any for their own tour leaders, instead encouraging donations to conservation charities and NGOs. And they make a point of showing their guests the impact that the rangers here have had in such a short space of time. “No visit to Zakouma is complete without understanding how its natural wealth is protected and that’s a narrative we definitely want to share.”
Don’t come to Zakouma expecting full-service luxury and animals sleepily accustomed to the rumble of a jeep engine. Come if you want to be almost alone with incredible wildlife, in a little-known park in a little-visited country where decades of hard work is finally coming to fruition.
Tom Clode’s Pictus Safaris encourage tipping for local guides and staff, but refuse any for their own tour leaders, instead encouraging donations to conservation charities and NGOs. And they make a point of showing their guests the impact that the rangers here have had in such a short space of time. “No visit to Zakouma is complete without understanding how its natural wealth is protected and that’s a narrative we definitely want to share.”
Don’t come to Zakouma expecting full-service luxury and animals sleepily accustomed to the rumble of a jeep engine. Come if you want to be almost alone with incredible wildlife, in a little-known park in a little-visited country where decades of hard work is finally coming to fruition.
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